Woodwork Post

[Mark Jerde]

Could someone assist my googling? <g> Two days ago the power company
converted a walnut tree in our backyard to a pile of branches and a stack of
14" logs about a foot to a foot and a half long. I painted the ends of the
largest of the logs before running out of old paint.

Then I unpacked my new Harbor Freight (I know, I know) mini lathe and set of
starter lathe chisels and made three practice "Christmas Tree Ornaments"
from lengths of the branches. No finish was applied. This morning the two
that are under an inch in diameter are ok but the 2" diameter ornament is
badly cracked.

How does one successfully work with green wood? Strip off the bark and let
it sit a year?

In any case I'm not going to be able to turn all the wood so there are some
free-for-the-hauling walnut logs in Bowie, Maryland USA if anyone wants some
wood. Do the obvious to the email address.

-- Mark

[Mark Jerde]

"Mark Jerde" wrote in message
news:6ogVk.2582$mi4.1769@nwrddc02.gnilink.net...

> In any case I'm not going to be able to turn all the wood so there are
> some free-for-the-hauling walnut logs in Bowie, Maryland USA if anyone
> wants some wood. Do the obvious to the email address.

Sorry about the spam addy, forgot I changed it. Try ([lower case] my first
name, no space, my last name at yahoo dot com).

-- Mark

[Nova]

Mark Jerde wrote:
> Could someone assist my googling? Two days ago the power company
> converted a walnut tree in our backyard to a pile of branches and a stack of
> 14" logs about a foot to a foot and a half long. I painted the ends of the
> largest of the logs before running out of old paint.
>
> Then I unpacked my new Harbor Freight (I know, I know) mini lathe and set of
> starter lathe chisels and made three practice "Christmas Tree Ornaments"
> from lengths of the branches. No finish was applied. This morning the two
> that are under an inch in diameter are ok but the 2" diameter ornament is
> badly cracked.
>
> How does one successfully work with green wood? Strip off the bark and let
> it sit a year?
>
> In any case I'm not going to be able to turn all the wood so there are some
> free-for-the-hauling walnut logs in Bowie, Maryland USA if anyone wants some
> wood. Do the obvious to the email address.
>
> -- Mark
>
>

Are you trying to turn the ornaments using an entire branch section or
are you splitting the logs to remove the pith?

--
Jack Novak
Buffalo, NY - USA
novasys@verizon.net

[John Gbur]

My best luck has been using several methods.

1) Remove the pith out no matter what you do.

2) Cut and turn as much as possible green. Leave it thicker so that you can
turn away what warps. Usually bowls in my case. Then
anchorseal it and let it dry. I just build up my stock often up to a year
then. Then return to the lathe turn it again then put on your finnish.

3) Cut and turn as soon as possible but leave it thin so that it can warp
without cracking (again usually bowls in my case).

4) Cut into spindle stock. (Leave pith out again). Then seal the ends, I
use anchorseal or parafin on the ends. Anchorseal is safer, but I found a
temperature controlled pot to use for parafin and seal ends outside. As
long as you stack them with stickers in between I have had very good results
creating my own spindle stock. Again I usually set this aside for later use
after it drys.

A very good book I would recommend is "Turning Green Wood" by Michael
Odonnell though there are now many good books and videos on turning green
wood.

Also website searches on turning green wood will give you many ideas.

Have fun and good luck. Remember even if you loose some it was all free.
After I few times of experimenting you will find what works for you.


"Mark Jerde" wrote in message
news:6ogVk.2582$mi4.1769@nwrddc02.gnilink.net...
> Could someone assist my googling? Two days ago the power company
> converted a walnut tree in our backyard to a pile of branches and a stack
> of 14" logs about a foot to a foot and a half long. I painted the ends of
> the largest of the logs before running out of old paint.
>
> Then I unpacked my new Harbor Freight (I know, I know) mini lathe and set
> of starter lathe chisels and made three practice "Christmas Tree
> Ornaments" from lengths of the branches. No finish was applied. This
> morning the two that are under an inch in diameter are ok but the 2"
> diameter ornament is badly cracked.
>
> How does one successfully work with green wood? Strip off the bark and
> let it sit a year?
>
> In any case I'm not going to be able to turn all the wood so there are
> some free-for-the-hauling walnut logs in Bowie, Maryland USA if anyone
> wants some wood. Do the obvious to the email address.
>
> -- Mark
>

[Martin H. Eastburn]

Green wood is a fun thing - like others have said, coat.

Don't plan on a pith line in anything - it will be a hole.

I have turned green wood and taken the 1/4" over size walls
to a drying area to dry slowly.

I have also taken an almost finished green bowl and put it
in a microwave.

afterwards you can shape a hot bowl - at 50% defrost or the like.
shape the bowl into unique non-round shapes. Hand sanding is required.

The precut bowls/cups - are drying faster and need to be slowed with damp rags.
When the rags dry and the bowls dry - (depends on the location!!)
then remount it on the lathe and complete the bowl or cup.....

Richard Raffan "Turning Wood" - video tape workshop is interesting as it is
all wet cutting.

It might help if you search for it - ISBN 0918804566

He has a companion book as well.

Martin

[Dave Lawson]

John Gbur wrote:
> 4) Cut into spindle stock. (Leave pith out again). Then seal the ends, I
> use anchorseal or parafin on the ends. Anchorseal is safer, but I found a
> temperature controlled pot to use for parafin and seal ends outside.

Being in the UK, I am wondering if paraffin would do a useful job. Have
you tried kerosene?

I assume you are referring to paraffin wax or candle wax.

I don't know how far around the world these various names go but the
thought of someone's workshop exploding as a result of following this
advice......

Don't forget the internet is worldwide and the UK's influence runs deep
in some parts still.

Dave L

[Gerald Ross]

Dave Lawson wrote:
> John Gbur wrote:
>> 4) Cut into spindle stock. (Leave pith out again). Then seal the ends, I
>> use anchorseal or parafin on the ends. Anchorseal is safer, but I found a
>> temperature controlled pot to use for parafin and seal ends outside.
>
> Being in the UK, I am wondering if paraffin would do a useful job. Have
> you tried kerosene?
>
> I assume you are referring to paraffin wax or candle wax.
>
> I don't know how far around the world these various names go but the
> thought of someone's workshop exploding as a result of following this
> advice......
>
> Don't forget the internet is worldwide and the UK's influence runs deep
> in some parts still.
>
> Dave L

We are both at fault. If we said paraffin wax and you said paraffin
oil, nobody would be confused. As much.

--
Gerald Ross
Cochran, GA

A Lot of people mistake their
imagination for their memory.

[Kevin]

Hello Mark,

Strip off the bark. Using a chain saw or maul, split the 14" logs
down the middle. This is to remove the pith.
You could also rip the logs into small flat pieces 2-3" in thickness.
Coat the ends with wax or loads of
old paint. Keep outside, covered (out of the rain), and off the
ground. Air must be allowed to circulate. Figure
about 1 year per inch thickness but I personally can't wait that long.

Use the branches to practice and develop your skills with the skew and
gouge.


On Nov 20, 11:38 am, "Mark Jerde" wrote:
> Could someone assist my googling?    Two days ago the power company
> converted a walnut tree in our backyard to a pile of branches and a stack of
> 14" logs about a foot to a foot and a half long.  I painted the ends of the
> largest of the logs before running out of old paint.
>
> Then I unpacked my new Harbor Freight (I know, I know) mini lathe and set of
> starter lathe chisels and made three practice "Christmas Tree Ornaments"
> from lengths of the branches.  No finish was applied.  This morning the two
> that are under an inch in diameter are ok but the 2" diameter ornament is
> badly cracked.
>
> How does one successfully work with green wood?  Strip off the bark and let
> it sit a year?
>
> In any case I'm not going to be able to turn all the wood so there are some
> free-for-the-hauling walnut logs in Bowie, Maryland USA if anyone wants some
> wood.  Do the obvious to the email address.
>
>    -- Mark

[Not Gimpy Anymore]

"Mark Jerde" wrote in message
news:6ogVk.2582$mi4.1769@nwrddc02.gnilink.net...
> Could someone assist my googling? Two days ago the power company
> converted a walnut tree in our backyard to a pile of branches and a stack
> of 14" logs about a foot to a foot and a half long. I painted the ends of
> the largest of the logs before running out of old paint.
>
> Then I unpacked my new Harbor Freight (I know, I know) mini lathe and set
> of starter lathe chisels and made three practice "Christmas Tree
> Ornaments" from lengths of the branches. No finish was applied. This
> morning the two that are under an inch in diameter are ok but the 2"
> diameter ornament is badly cracked.
>
> How does one successfully work with green wood? Strip off the bark and
> let it sit a year?
>
> In any case I'm not going to be able to turn all the wood so there are
> some free-for-the-hauling walnut logs in Bowie, Maryland USA if anyone
> wants some wood. Do the obvious to the email address.
>
> -- Mark

I have been told (my direct experience in turning is still futuristic)
that one can
turn green wood, but after turning, it should be sealed somehow to cure (dry
without
cracking) for about a year.
My particular informant prefers using plastic film wrap (saran or
equivalent),
wrapping the piece(s) well, & storing away for about a year.

Either way, it will be a long time until you can turn the green wood into
a useful
thing without cracks - either cure the stock, or cure the turning...

HTH

[Jack Stein]

Gerald Ross wrote:

>> Being in the UK, I am wondering if paraffin would do a useful job.
>> Have you tried kerosene?
>>
>> I assume you are referring to paraffin wax or candle wax.

I used to use an old hand held electric clothes iron to melt paraffin
wax into the end grain. This stops the rapid, uneven drying that causes
cracks in wet wood drying. Also be sure the pith is removed. I never
used any commercial products like anchor seal that everyone seems to
like, but wax always worked well for me.

--
Jack
Using FREE News Server: http://motzarella.org/
http://jbstein.com/

>> I don't know how far around the world these various names go but the
>> thought of someone's workshop exploding as a result of following this
>> advice......
>>
>> Don't forget the internet is worldwide and the UK's influence runs
>> deep in some parts still.
>>
>> Dave L
>
> We are both at fault. If we said paraffin wax and you said paraffin oil,
> nobody would be confused. As much.
>