Woodwork Post

I did a search and every instance all link back to
http://www.iedu.com/DeSoto/dado.html which is a bad link. I would love to
see it.

Ted


"Leon" wrote in message
news:PLdUk.8844$ZP4.6876@nlpi067.nbdc.sbc.com...
>
> "Ted" wrote in message
> news:Dc4Uk.69962$vX2.16647@bignews6.bellsouth.net...
>>I am trying to decide either to make dadoos with a router or with a table
>>saw. I know that they make router bits designed to match the true sixe of
>>plywood.
>>
>> I have never worked with dadoos before. I have both 1/4 and 1/2 inch
>> routers, which would be better? Do it in one pass or multiple working
>> down to the final depth?
>>
>> If a table saw, what size blade would I get for my 10" table say?
>>
>> Thanks
>>
>> Ted
>>
>
> Personal preference. I used to do them with a router, I even designed a
> router dado jig that does indeed make the perfect sized dado. You use the
> actual material that will fit into the dado to set the jig up. Width does
> not matter. You might be able to find the design plans on the internet if
> you look for "Leon's dado jig".
> Now however I typically use the stacked dado set on the TS if making more
> than 1 dado. The TS stacked dado takes more time to set up than my jig
> but after it is set up multiple dado's of the same size are much faster.
>
>

Thanks to everyone for your answers. My first project for this will be
"cabinets" for a closet organizer system. I think that I will start with a
router setup due to all the different setups for each pass.

Ted


"todd" wrote in message
news:cV5Uk.525$jZ1.175@flpi144.ffdc.sbc.com...
>
> "Ted" wrote in message
> news:Dc4Uk.69962$vX2.16647@bignews6.bellsouth.net...
>>I am trying to decide either to make dadoos with a router or with a table
>>saw. I know that they make router bits designed to match the true sixe of
>>plywood.
>>
>> I have never worked with dadoos before. I have both 1/4 and 1/2 inch
>> routers, which would be better? Do it in one pass or multiple working
>> down to the final depth?
>>
>> If a table saw, what size blade would I get for my 10" table say?
>>
>> Thanks
>>
>> Ted
>
> Ted,
> My suggestion is to do them on the table saw, but you'll need a stacked
> dado set that cuts a flat bottom. The problem I've found with
> "plywood-sized" router bits is that they aren't....you
> know...plywood-sized. The real problem is that plywood isn't
> plywood-sized, at least not what I find at my hardwood lumber store. The
> plywood bits I've seen are 1/32" undersized from the nominal plywood size.
> *, I can't get plywood that's only 1/16" undersize. What I do in this
> situation is measure the plywood thickness, set up my stacked dado set and
> cut a test in the same material I'll be using, test the fit, and adjust as
> needed. \\
>
> Mine is an 8". The dado set, that is.
>
> todd
>
>

"Ted" wrote in message
> Thanks to everyone for your answers. My first project for this will be
> "cabinets" for a closet organizer system. I think that I will start with a
> router setup due to all the different setups for each pass.

There is one thing to consider when making dados. A router bit is a fixed
size and it's sometimes a pain to have to do repeat cuts to sneak up on the
exact width of dado slot that you need. A dado blade for a table saw
however, can be configured to the exact size needed, so you adjust to what
you want and then you can do many repeat cuts much faster.

The good scenario when using routers is if you have a bit that cuts the
exact size of dado that you need from the get go.

I can send you a pdf file by e-mail if you like. It is a basic CAD drawing.
If you are still interested I can give you some details to explain the
concept of how it works.



"Ted" wrote in message
news:g6pUk.67103$Ep1.29685@bignews2.bellsouth.net...
>I did a search and every instance all link back to
>http://www.iedu.com/DeSoto/dado.html which is a bad link. I would love to
>see it.
>
> Ted
>
>
> "Leon" wrote in message
> news:PLdUk.8844$ZP4.6876@nlpi067.nbdc.sbc.com...
>>
>> "Ted" wrote in message
>> news:Dc4Uk.69962$vX2.16647@bignews6.bellsouth.net...
>>>I am trying to decide either to make dadoos with a router or with a table
>>>saw. I know that they make router bits designed to match the true sixe of
>>>plywood.
>>>
>>> I have never worked with dadoos before. I have both 1/4 and 1/2 inch
>>> routers, which would be better? Do it in one pass or multiple working
>>> down to the final depth?
>>>
>>> If a table saw, what size blade would I get for my 10" table say?
>>>
>>> Thanks
>>>
>>> Ted
>>>
>>
>> Personal preference. I used to do them with a router, I even designed a
>> router dado jig that does indeed make the perfect sized dado. You use
>> the actual material that will fit into the dado to set the jig up. Width
>> does not matter. You might be able to find the design plans on the
>> internet if you look for "Leon's dado jig".
>> Now however I typically use the stacked dado set on the TS if making more
>> than 1 dado. The TS stacked dado takes more time to set up than my jig
>> but after it is set up multiple dado's of the same size are much faster.
>>
>>
>
>

"either to make dadoos with a router or with a table saw . . .
"is that they aren't....you know...plywood-sized. ...

There is a technique used that kills this bird and on other off on the
horizon - cutting a rabbit into the edge of the plywood to bring it to
a "standard" thickness and cutting the dado in the mating piece to
match.

This saves you the expense of a "Plywood-sized" router bit (set?) and
has the advantage of hiding the joint nicely. Sorry I couldn't come up
with a link for youor even a "name" for the approach.

Of course, as with most all who post here, your post was bereft of
many of the details you were privy to in considering the alternatives.
How large are the pieces you will be working with? Are you building
shop shelves of heirloom cabinetry - if you are in prison, is it for
you or the guards or your daddy?

" look for "Leon's dado jig"."

Was "up" on Desoto's site, but not today. Instead, I found the three-
legged sawhorses - worth a look. http://www.iedu.com/DeSoto/Projects/SawHorse/

Here's one that's simple for smaller stock:
http://www.woodworkingtips.com/etips/etip031205wb-closer.html

And a picture of another approach - to get exact width of receiving
stock: http://images.meredith.com/wood/images/a_343_1_3.gif

"Veritas Dado Shims"
, I like Lee Valley's plastic dado shims
> http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=1&p=30063&cat=1,41080,51225...

The threads on my saw's arbor "catch" shims from time to time (I have
a few mangled shims as a result) and I was wondering if anyone had a
"fix" other than wrapping a bit of scotch tape around the arbor before
adding the dado blades and shims.

Hoosierpopi wrote:
> " look for "Leon's dado jig"."
>
> Was "up" on Desoto's site, but not today. Instead, I found the three-
> legged sawhorses - worth a look. http://www.iedu.com/DeSoto/Projects/SawHorse/

It was there for quite a while, and was deleted (with a /lot/ of other
files) when it seemed appropriate.

There's an explanation at http://www.iedu.com/DeSoto/Misc.html

--
Morris Dovey
DeSoto Solar
DeSoto, Iowa USA
http://www.iedu.com/DeSoto/

"Hoosierpopi" wrote in message
news:dcdedf97-4bec-46cf-8c44-7d7779022df4@35g2000pry.googlegroups.com...
> "Veritas Dado Shims"
> , I like Lee Valley's plastic dado shims
>> http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=1&p=30063&cat=1,41080,51225...
>
> The threads on my saw's arbor "catch" shims from time to time (I have
> a few mangled shims as a result) and I was wondering if anyone had a
> "fix" other than wrapping a bit of scotch tape around the arbor before
> adding the dado blades and shims.
>

Take a look at this jig that Infinity offers at their site. Watch the video
too. It's a little pricy, but a neat jig. It's a no brainer doing dado's.
http://www.infinitytools.com/prodinfo.asp?number=PDJ-100

"Morris Dovey" wrote in message
news:4922e603$0$89394$815e3792@news.qwest.net...
> Hoosierpopi wrote:
>> " look for "Leon's dado jig"."
>>
>> Was "up" on Desoto's site, but not today. Instead, I found the three-
>> legged sawhorses - worth a look.
>> http://www.iedu.com/DeSoto/Projects/SawHorse/
>
> It was there for quite a while, and was deleted (with a /lot/ of other
> files) when it seemed appropriate.
>
> There's an explanation at http://www.iedu.com/DeSoto/Misc.html


I hope you considered me a contributor rather than an offender. Either way
I did and do appreciate your site. Thank you again.