Woodwork Post

I am trying to decide either to make dadoos with a router or with a table
saw. I know that they make router bits designed to match the true sixe of
plywood.

I have never worked with dadoos before. I have both 1/4 and 1/2 inch
routers, which would be better? Do it in one pass or multiple working down
to the final depth?

If a table saw, what size blade would I get for my 10" table say?

Thanks

Ted

"Ted" wrote in message
news:Dc4Uk.69962$vX2.16647@bignews6.bellsouth.net...
>I am trying to decide either to make dadoos with a router or with a table
>saw. I know that they make router bits designed to match the true sixe of
>plywood.
>
> I have never worked with dadoos before. I have both 1/4 and 1/2 inch
> routers, which would be better? Do it in one pass or multiple working down
> to the final depth?
>
> If a table saw, what size blade would I get for my 10" table say?
>
> Thanks
>
> Ted
>
Check out this web site and play the video.
http://www.infinitytools.com/prodinfo.asp?number=PDJ-100

"Ted" wrote in message
news:Dc4Uk.69962$vX2.16647@bignews6.bellsouth.net...
>I am trying to decide either to make dadoos with a router or with a table
>saw. I know that they make router bits designed to match the true sixe of
>plywood.
>
> I have never worked with dadoos before. I have both 1/4 and 1/2 inch
> routers, which would be better? Do it in one pass or multiple working down
> to the final depth?
>
> If a table saw, what size blade would I get for my 10" table say?
>
> Thanks
>
> Ted

Ted,
My suggestion is to do them on the table saw, but you'll need a stacked dado
set that cuts a flat bottom. The problem I've found with "plywood-sized"
router bits is that they aren't....you know...plywood-sized. The real
problem is that plywood isn't plywood-sized, at least not what I find at my
hardwood lumber store. The plywood bits I've seen are 1/32" undersized from
the nominal plywood size. *, I can't get plywood that's only 1/16"
undersize. What I do in this situation is measure the plywood thickness,
set up my stacked dado set and cut a test in the same material I'll be
using, test the fit, and adjust as needed. \\

Mine is an 8". The dado set, that is.

todd

"Ted" wrote:

>I am trying to decide either to make dadoos with a router or with a
>table saw.

It depends; however, a stacked dado on a table saw offers more
flexibility.

Freud will have an 8" stacked dado for use on a 10" table saw for
around $200.

There are others of similar or better quality, I just happen to have
the Freud.

When a stacked dado doesn't do the job, time to look at the router.

Lew


Lew

"Ted" wrote in message
news:Dc4Uk.69962$vX2.16647@bignews6.bellsouth.net...
>I am trying to decide either to make dadoos with a router or with a table
>saw. I know that they make router bits designed to match the true sixe of
>plywood.
>
> I have never worked with dadoos before. I have both 1/4 and 1/2 inch
> routers, which would be better? Do it in one pass or multiple working down
> to the final depth?
>
> If a table saw, what size blade would I get for my 10" table say?
>
> Thanks
>
> Ted
>

Personal preference. I used to do them with a router, I even designed a
router dado jig that does indeed make the perfect sized dado. You use the
actual material that will fit into the dado to set the jig up. Width does
not matter. You might be able to find the design plans on the internet if
you look for "Leon's dado jig".
Now however I typically use the stacked dado set on the TS if making more
than 1 dado. The TS stacked dado takes more time to set up than my jig but
after it is set up multiple dado's of the same size are much faster.

Ted wrote:
> I am trying to decide either to make dadoos with a router or with a table
> saw. I know that they make router bits designed to match the true sixe of
> plywood.

Both! Generally, the table saw is faster and easier, but, if you want
to cut a dado on the ends of 8' book self sides, it's easier on a router
or a radial arm saw.

> I have never worked with dadoos before. I have both 1/4 and 1/2 inch
> routers, which would be better? Do it in one pass or multiple working down
> to the final depth?

You'll figure that out yourself after you cut a couple. Depends on
size, wood, cutter and so on.

> If a table saw, what size blade would I get for my 10" table say?

Dado sets are generally smaller than your regular 10" blades. dado's
are always shallow cuts not 3 inches deep so no need for a 10" dado set.
The width is easy to adjust in stacked dado's simply by putting paper
"washers" for spacers between the blades to adjust the cut. If you
don't own a dado set, I would recommend you stay away for the adjustable
wobble things, and get a nice standard stacked dado set.

--
Jack
Using FREE News Server: http://motzarella.org/
http://jbstein.com/

"Jack Stein" wrote in message
> The width is easy to adjust in stacked dado's simply by putting paper
> "washers" for spacers between the blades to adjust the cut.

And, in preference to the suggested paper ships above, I like Lee Valley's
plastic dado shims that have a slot cut in them so one doesn't have to
remove the arbour nut completely to add or remove shims.

http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=1&p=30063&cat=1,41080,51225&ap=1

"Ted" wrote in
news:Dc4Uk.69962$vX2.16647@bignews6.bellsouth.net:

> I am trying to decide either to make dadoos with a router or with a
> table saw. I know that they make router bits designed to match the
> true sixe of plywood.
>
> I have never worked with dadoos before. I have both 1/4 and 1/2 inch
> routers, which would be better? Do it in one pass or multiple working
> down to the final depth?
>
> If a table saw, what size blade would I get for my 10" table say?
>
> Thanks
>
> Ted
>
>

If you just need to cut a few dadoes, the standard table saw blade will
work just fine, it's just a bit tedious to set, cut, reset, cut, etc. If
you have a lot of dadoes to cut, get a good dado stack as described in the
other emails.

> "Ted" wrote

I am trying to decide either to make dadoos with a router or with a
table
saw. I know that they make router bits designed to match the true sixe
of
plywood.

I have never worked with dadoos before. I have both 1/4 and 1/2 inch
routers, which would be better? Do it in one pass or multiple working
down
the final depth?
If a table saw, what size blade would I get for my 10" table say?

Thanks

Ted

I use a guide I made for the job
http://www.flickr.com/photos/mdinep/2526517102/

You can see that the guide is good for two different DeWalt routers (the
618 and the 621)

Max

Ted wrote:
> I am trying to decide either to make dadoos with a router or with a table
> saw. I know that they make router bits designed to match the true sixe of
> plywood.
>
> I have never worked with dadoos before. I have both 1/4 and 1/2 inch
> routers, which would be better? Do it in one pass or multiple working down
> to the final depth?
>
> If a table saw, what size blade would I get for my 10" table say?


I do them both ways, depending on details and mood.

If the ends will be covered, 99% of the time, I'll use a table saw and
my Dado King set. If the ends will show, I'll use a router.

I have an 8" dado, but a 6" will work fine and save a few bucks. I use
a shopmade sled, story stick, and the fence to make identical parts.
The blades get set to a measurement of the actual shelf stock + a few
thou. I've never used my dado set for a depth that a 6" wouldn't have
handled.

Using a router, use a smaller bit than the groove, say, a 1/2" bit to
cut a 3/4" slot and Leon's auto adjusting jig. That's the simplest way
to perfect * routed dados I've ever tried. Depending on your
router, you can probably do it in two passes.