Woodwork Post

Dave wrote:
> "MikeWhy" wrote in message
> news:__JUk.5949$W06.3636@flpi148.ffdc.sbc.com...
>> wrote in message
>> news:63bd4cc1-46c7-4d67-8ac4-469a538b1283@35g2000pry.googlegroups.com...
>>> But... they have a promo on now. For $129, you get TWO drills,
>>> two
>>> batteries, the charger and a softside case. I bit. I often set
>>> up
>>> two drill when working to do a line of repetition like one drill
>>> to
>>> drill holes, one to drive.
>>
>> I got the Milwaukee, $103 at Amazon. Two batteries, one drill, but
>> otherwise sounds about the same, lights, fast charger, case and
>> all.
>> HD wasn't offering the promo back then. I don't feel a loss for
>> having to swap the driver for a drill bit. The change is quick and
>> easy. More to the point, though, the 500 RPM driver is a bit slow
>> for drilling. I prefer a normal corded drill for making lots of
>> holes. (If it's not lots of holes, I guess it doesn't matter so
>> much
>> how often you swap or don't swap the bits, or how slow it spins.)
>> It's a great little driver that can also make a few holes.
>>
>> As to who they are, Milwaukee is a US headquarted company, owned by
>> the European conglomerate that also owns Ryobi and a few others.
>> Ridgid doesn't say much on their website about where and who they
>> are.
>>
>> Ridgid (the tools) are owned by the same conglomerate as Ryobi. The
>> Ridgid is on sale at HD for $99(one drill). The 2 drill was a
>> special buy for a limited time only. The Ridgid is better ,IMO,
>> because you aren't saddled into using only the Quik-Change bits
>> like
>> the Milwaukee. The specs on both are very close and the Ridgid has
>> a
>> Lifetime warrenty on everything.

I don't see the hex chuck as being all that much of a disadvantage
anymore. One can buy regular chucks with hex shanks that snap right
in (get the deWalt or the Milwaukee, not the Makita that Home Despot
sells--the Makita's shaft has a shoulder on it that's a bit short for
most hex chucks and needs some grinding before it will lock in on some
drills and drivers and isn't all that great a chuck to begin with).

That said, I'd go with an impact driver over a drill for screws.
Reasons? That Milwaukee drill gives you up to 500 rpm and 100
inch-pounds of torque. The equivalent impact driver in the Milwaukee
range is a hair smaller, a hair heavier, gives you up to 2000 RPM and
850 inch-pounds and doesn't fight you. You do pay about 70 bucks more
for the impact driver though.

--
--
--John
to email, dial "usenet" and validate
(was jclarke at eye bee em dot net)

"J. Clarke" wrote in message
> inch-pounds of torque. The equivalent impact driver in the Milwaukee
> range is a hair smaller, a hair heavier, gives you up to 2000 RPM and
> 850 inch-pounds and doesn't fight you. You do pay about 70 bucks more
> for the impact driver though.

Only problem with impact drivers is that they're loud. Frequently, I find
myself putting something together in my living room in the middle of the
night. Don't think the neighbours would appreciate that too much.

"Upscale" wrote in message
news:d89b4$492408d8$cef88bc5$31095@TEKSAVVY.COM...
>
> "J. Clarke" wrote in message
>> inch-pounds of torque. The equivalent impact driver in the Milwaukee
>> range is a hair smaller, a hair heavier, gives you up to 2000 RPM and
>> 850 inch-pounds and doesn't fight you. You do pay about 70 bucks more
>> for the impact driver though.
>
> Only problem with impact drivers is that they're loud. Frequently, I find
> myself putting something together in my living room in the middle of the
> night. Don't think the neighbours would appreciate that too much.
>

Agreed, I have both a Makita drill and impact driver. Each has it's own set
of pluses. The impact is a brute but like most impacts, is noisy and tends
to be too aggressive for some screws. With the exception of the Panasonic
and perhaps a few others the impacts cannot be preset to a particular torque
setting.

"Leon" wrote in message
> Agreed, I have both a Makita drill and impact driver. Each has it's own
set
> of pluses. The impact is a brute but like most impacts, is noisy and
tends
> to be too aggressive for some screws. With the exception of the Panasonic
> and perhaps a few others the impacts cannot be preset to a particular
torque
> setting.

The noise problem makes me think of when I'm getting things ready for a
morning trip somewhere. I use a compressor top up the pressure on my
wheelchair tires, but I can't (won't) use it for my late night preparations.
I had to go out and buy myself a decent manual pump

"Upscale" wrote
>
> The noise problem makes me think of when I'm getting things ready for
> a
> morning trip somewhere. I use a compressor top up the pressure on my
> wheelchair tires, but I can't (won't) use it for my late night
> preparations.
> I had to go out and buy myself a decent manual pump
>
>
LOL

I remember years ago, bringing a old fashioned manual tire pump out to pump
up a couple car tires that were underinflated. The people who were visiting
went nuts. They had never seen a human operated tire pump before. They acted
like it was civil war technology and I had an operational antique. I grew
up on the farm where everything from tractor tires to anything else on
wheels were pumped up by hand. I guess that isn't so common anymore.

Lee Michaels wrote:
...
> up on the farm where everything from tractor tires to anything else on
> wheels were pumped up by hand. I guess that isn't so common anymore.
>
...

Dang!!! That'd take some time for a 18.4-38 rear tractor tire for the
volume alone. (And 38" rims are getting to be on the small side these
days.)

I think a compressor was one of the first things Grandpa got when got
REA power (in '48) -- just too much time and compressed air too useful
for other things to not have.

Having a manual pump as reserve is useful and wise, however, in vehicle
or such.

--

"dpb" wrote

> Lee Michaels wrote:
> ...
>> up on the farm where everything from tractor tires to anything else on
>> wheels were pumped up by hand. I guess that isn't so common anymore.
>>
> ...
>
> Dang!!! That'd take some time for a 18.4-38 rear tractor tire for the
> volume alone. (And 38" rims are getting to be on the small side these
> days.)
>
> I think a compressor was one of the first things Grandpa got when got REA
> power (in '48) -- just too much time and compressed air too useful for
> other things to not have.
>
> Having a manual pump as reserve is useful and wise, however, in vehicle or
> such.
>
The tractor tires were filled mostly with water to increase weight. We just
topped them off with air. What was really hard was pouring water into that
little hole....... Just kidding. We had a special attachment for the hose
for this purpose. :)

And most of our farm equipment was converted from the horse drawn era. Which
meant that the tires were steel. Although we did have a couple new fangled
trailers with air inflated tires. And the trucks were had rubber tires. But
they started with cranks too. I remember when the big modification on the
trucks were to update their 6 volt systems to 12 volt.

On Nov 19, 7:51 am, "Leon" wrote:

> Agreed, I have both a Makita drill and impact driver. Each has it's own set
> of pluses. The impact is a brute but like most impacts, is noisy and tends
> to be too aggressive for some screws.

Right there with you 100% Leon. The screws (especially the finish
screws) I seem to get these days are so soft it is ridiculous. And
about half the time the phillips bits don't really seem to fit well at
all. Just a little too much drill, and the heads get damaged or
stripped. Unacceptable on finish hardware.

If you note above, I said I dry fit the cabinet components before
finishing. I actually go buy bulk blister packs of screws that are
the same size as the trim screws for the hinges. I use them, then
throw hem away. All the screws are made with the softest material
possible to save wear and tear on their equipment in China. They are
just plain crap.

They are the reason I don't use my larger drills to assemble the
cabs. And the reason I like this new little find (at least for now!)
is that my 14.4 is too much and too bulky for driving 5/8" #6 screws,
and my power screwdriver doesn't feel right when "driving" a *.

>With the exception of the Panasonic
> and perhaps a few others the impacts cannot be preset to a particular torque
> setting.

I think torque settings are good on the impact guns, but not so much
so on drills. I just turn mine to drill. When driving into
inconsistent materials, it is too much of a pain for me to fiddle with
the torque settings. I leave it on drill, and it's always where it
should be for me. I get used to the "feel" of the drill.

That's another reason for a smaller drill. My bigger drills have
always swamped these little screws, but I don't have the wrists to
drive 300+ screws a day anymore, I don't care what size they are. I
like the control of the smaller unit.

Robert

Lee Michaels wrote:
> "dpb" wrote
>
>> Lee Michaels wrote:
>> ...
>>> up on the farm where everything from tractor tires to anything else on
>>> wheels were pumped up by hand. I guess that isn't so common anymore.
>>>
>> ...
>>
>> Dang!!! That'd take some time for a 18.4-38 rear tractor tire for the
>> volume alone. (And 38" rims are getting to be on the small side these
>> days.)
>>
>> I think a compressor was one of the first things Grandpa got when got REA
>> power (in '48) -- just too much time and compressed air too useful for
>> other things to not have.
>>
>> Having a manual pump as reserve is useful and wise, however, in vehicle or
>> such.
>>
> The tractor tires were filled mostly with water to increase weight. We just
> topped them off with air. What was really hard was pouring water into that
> little hole....... Just kidding. We had a special attachment for the hose
> for this purpose. :)
>
> And most of our farm equipment was converted from the horse drawn era. Which
> meant that the tires were steel. Although we did have a couple new fangled
> trailers with air inflated tires. And the trucks were had rubber tires. But
> they started with cranks too. I remember when the big modification on the
> trucks were to update their 6 volt systems to 12 volt.

Can't fill over about half -- we use CaCl solution, too. Still a lot of
volume for a hand pump...

I'm only old enough to remember the Farmall M's as the first tractors
were actively using--by then the old steel-wheel Twin City while it
still would run had been parked and the little Cat 22's that they used
through the 30s for all the row crop work had also been retired as they
had gone from the pull-type 3-row to the 4-row draw bar arrangement.
This was early 50s by then.

All the old horse/mule-drawn equipment was long gone by then, of course,
although there are still pieces sitting in the old equipment row. The
oldest thing we were using then was the '28 Chevy truck which was what I
learned to drive first. It was pretty kewl--still hate it that Dad let
it go while brother and I were off in college and didn't know he was
even thinking about it.

The difference then to now is truly amazing -- now we're up to 12- or
16-row row crop w/ GPS and field monitors that actually place each seed
kernel a precise distance apart on planting or give moisture and
localized yield maps on the fly while harvesting...

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