Woodwork Post

Anyone here flame polish acrylic? I've got several 3/8" thick acrylic
shelves I'm adding to my entertainment centre and I've found out one
can flame polish the edges instead of using the labour intensive
sanding and polishing compound.

It's suggested to use a hydrogen/oxygen torch with a fine tip to
polish the acrylic. Not having the equipment to accomplish this, I'm
wanting to know if I can get away with a simple propane torch to do
essentially the same thing? I'm willing to spend a little money here,
but not what I'd have to spend for a full welding setup.

Thanks

sweetnothing@no.com wrote:
> Anyone here flame polish acrylic? I've got several 3/8" thick acrylic
> shelves I'm adding to my entertainment centre and I've found out one
> can flame polish the edges instead of using the labour intensive
> sanding and polishing compound.

I've done it with a little propane torch, but I started with jigsaw
edges so the results were smooth but not perfectly straight.

Worth a try, anyways. The torch is useful for various homeowner tasks
as well (especially if you have copper water pipes).

Chris

On Mon, 17 Nov 2008 09:31:44 -0500, sweetnothing@no.com wrote:

>
>Anyone here flame polish acrylic? I've got several 3/8" thick acrylic
>shelves I'm adding to my entertainment centre and I've found out one
>can flame polish the edges instead of using the labour intensive
>sanding and polishing compound.
>

You can also put the piece in the oven if it will fit at about 300 F
and keep an eye on it over 15/20 min. Laying it on a flat object
will keep it from sagging.

On the other hand it gets to be stinky and your wife will likely
butcher you in your sleep.

P

On Mon, 17 Nov 2008 09:31:44 -0500, sweetnothing@no.com wrote:

>
>Anyone here flame polish acrylic? I've got several 3/8" thick acrylic
>shelves I'm adding to my entertainment centre and I've found out one
>can flame polish the edges instead of using the labour intensive
>sanding and polishing compound.
>
>It's suggested to use a hydrogen/oxygen torch with a fine tip to
>polish the acrylic. Not having the equipment to accomplish this, I'm
>wanting to know if I can get away with a simple propane torch to do
>essentially the same thing? I'm willing to spend a little money here,
>but not what I'd have to spend for a full welding setup.
>
>Thanks

I used to use a propane torch all the time to polish acrylic.
The technique I use is to pass the flame very quickly over
the edge. Keep repeating in the same direction until you see it start
to get glossy. Something like spray painting having the trigger on
only in one direction. Acrylic burns if you leave the flame in one
spot too long. The surface should be flat to start.

I have done a whole cabinate that way. Make sure the edges are routed so you
get a nice clean edge.
Brian
wrote in message
news:f003i4h8id3272sm4jm4d49v5vbg87kjqd@4ax.com...
>
> Anyone here flame polish acrylic? I've got several 3/8" thick acrylic
> shelves I'm adding to my entertainment centre and I've found out one
> can flame polish the edges instead of using the labour intensive
> sanding and polishing compound.
>
> It's suggested to use a hydrogen/oxygen torch with a fine tip to
> polish the acrylic. Not having the equipment to accomplish this, I'm
> wanting to know if I can get away with a simple propane torch to do
> essentially the same thing? I'm willing to spend a little money here,
> but not what I'd have to spend for a full welding setup.
>
> Thanks

"BrianInHampton" wrote in message
> I have done a whole cabinet that way. Make sure the edges are routed so
you

I've just experimented a bit with a piece of scrap. The edge of the 3/8"
acrylic was shiny and clean when finished and I can't complain about how it
looks. However, about 1/8" close to the edge on the face part of the
acrylic, the part one would look through, was visually distorted. I'm not
sure if it was my technique or something else. I'll have to experiment a
little bit more.

On another piece, I used a cabinet scraper to give me a flat surface with
the saw marks removed. I then used some 400 grit sandpaper to smooth it out
and give me an even and flat, but opaque surface. I've left it for now and
when I get back to it, I'll use a buffing wheel and some compound to see if
I can get that transparent, shiny surface similar to what the guy at the
plastics store did on some other shelving.

On Nov 21, 1:06 am, "Upscale" wrote:
> "BrianInHampton" wrote in message
> > I have done a whole cabinet that way. Make sure the edges are routed so
>
> you
>
> I've just experimented a bit with a piece of scrap. The edge of the 3/8"
> acrylic was shiny and clean when finished and I can't complain about how it
> looks. However, about 1/8" close to the edge on the face part of the
> acrylic, the part one would look through, was visually distorted. I'm not
> sure if it was my technique or something else. I'll have to experiment a
> little bit more.
>
> On another piece, I used a cabinet scraper to give me a flat surface with
> the saw marks removed. I then used some 400 grit sandpaper to smooth it out
> and give me an even and flat, but opaque surface. I've left it for now and
> when I get back to it, I'll use a buffing wheel and some compound to see if
> I can get that transparent, shiny surface similar to what the guy at the
> plastics store did on some other shelving.

I've done a fair bit of optics with acrylic sheet ( stuff like www-
physics.lbl.gov/~spieler/physics_198_notes_1999/PDF/IV-
Scintillators-3.pdf from a quick google search ). If you care about
optical clarity, I'd avoid the flame. Start flat and smooth (not a
bandsaw, but table saw or better yet milling machine). Work your way
up through the grits to about 2k-4k, *gently* VERY *gently* hit the
buffing wheel and at the end use regular old white copier paper as a
final abrasive.

The funny thing about when flame polishing comes up in an online forum
is that the discussion starts out with "I want a quick way to smooth
and polish an edge" and it ends up with "I'm not happy because my
flame polished edge isn't perfect." Ya gets what ya pays for.
Photons are unforgiving. Be glad you aren't trying to make mating
clear surfaces -- then you often care about the edges being
*straight* too.

hex
-30-

"hex" wrote in message
up through the grits to about 2k-4k, *gently* VERY *gently* hit the
buffing wheel and at the end use regular old white copier paper as a
final abrasive.

I haven't seen a grit (sandpaper anyway) that goes above 600, not sure where
or what I'd use for 2-4k. I did buy two new buffing wheels, with one
supposed to be a little coarser than the other. It might be a wasted effort,
but I'll try out the coarser one first and see what kind of surface I get.
These are doors for an entertainment centre, so someone would have to
looking straight down on the edges to really notice if the edges weren't
perfectly transparent.

Thanks for the info.

"Upscale" wrote in message
news:b8ed3$4926e941$cef88bc5$5814@TEKSAVVY.COM...
>
> "hex" wrote in message
> up through the grits to about 2k-4k, *gently* VERY *gently* hit the
> buffing wheel and at the end use regular old white copier paper as a
> final abrasive.
>
> I haven't seen a grit (sandpaper anyway) that goes above 600, not sure
> where
> or what I'd use for 2-4k. I did buy two new buffing wheels, with one
> supposed to be a little coarser than the other. It might be a wasted
> effort,
> but I'll try out the coarser one first and see what kind of surface I get.
> These are doors for an entertainment centre, so someone would have to
> looking straight down on the edges to really notice if the edges weren't
> perfectly transparent.
>
> Thanks for the info.
>

auto stores carry higher grits. used for painted surfaces.

Upscale wrote:
> "hex" wrote in message
> up through the grits to about 2k-4k, *gently* VERY *gently* hit the
> buffing wheel and at the end use regular old white copier paper as a
> final abrasive.
>
> I haven't seen a grit (sandpaper anyway) that goes above 600, not sure where
> or what I'd use for 2-4k. I did buy two new buffing wheels, with one
> supposed to be a little coarser than the other. It might be a wasted effort,
> but I'll try out the coarser one first and see what kind of surface I get.
> These are doors for an entertainment centre, so someone would have to
> looking straight down on the edges to really notice if the edges weren't
> perfectly transparent.
>
> Thanks for the info.
>
>

For sandpaper above the 600 grit range try an automotive store that
sells painting supplies. It's used to rub out the final finish.

--
Jack Novak
Buffalo, NY - USA
novasys@verizon.net