Woodwork Post

I have a new teak dining table, well finished, & ready to go. I want
to protect the surface from spills, etc. I thought to buy teak oil,
but reading posts elsewhere, it doesn't do much to give the kind of
protection I want. There is a combination tung/teak oil product & I
wonder about using that.

What I want is a product I can wipe on with a rag & wipe off the
excess, but which will still give me the protection. I don't want to
sand/steel wool between coats. I just want one application to
initially seal the porous wood. This is asking a lot.

Here are some choices I've run across & I'd like someone's opinion/
experience with. I'd really like it if I can find the product in my
local Ace Hardware, Home Depot, etc.:

Oil/Varnish mixtures like Behr Scandinavian Tung Oil Finish, Minwax
Tung Oil Finish, Watco Danish Oil, etc.

Thinnned or Wiping Varnishes like Minway (Minwax?) Wiping Varnish,
Watco Wiping Varnish, Formby's Tung Oil Finish, etc.

I've also thought of a polyurethane satin, as I don't want a sheen,
but polyurethane application is with a brush, producing bubble
problems & I don't want to deal with that.

I've thought of Thompson's Water Seal, but that may leave an
unpleasant odor.

Would appreciate any opinions/experiences. I'm a novice.

Just to be clear, is this table for outdoors or indoors?

Yes, you want an oil finish. No you don't want a Poly finish. Poly is
a film finish and is not going to have the application attributes you
want. Even a wiping poly (poly with 50% or more thinner) is still a
film finish and can give you problems in gettin a good finish unless
you are practiced.

Pure or true oil finishes will polymerize and build some level of film
finish but not to anywhere near the hardness of a poly. I would
suggest true Tung oil or Boiled Linseed Oil (BLO) thinned with mineral
spirits or turpentine. You will likely want to do a few coats with a
day in between or as the can suggests. For a full description try
looking here.

http://www.refinishfurniture.com/tung_oil_finish.htm


On Nov 18, 9:17 pm, Empedocles wrote:
> I have a new teak dining table, well finished, & ready to go. I want
> to protect the surface from spills, etc. I thought to buy teak oil,
> but reading posts elsewhere, it doesn't do much to give the kind of
> protection I want. There is a combination tung/teak oil product & I
> wonder about using that.
>
> What I want is a product I can wipe on with a rag & wipe off the
> excess, but which will still give me the protection. I don't want to
> sand/steel wool between coats. I just want one application to
> initially seal the porous wood. This is asking a lot.
>
> Here are some choices I've run across & I'd like someone's opinion/
> experience with. I'd really like it if I can find the product in my
> local Ace Hardware, Home Depot, etc.:
>
> Oil/Varnish mixtures like Behr Scandinavian Tung Oil Finish, Minwax
> Tung Oil Finish, Watco Danish Oil, etc.
>
> Thinnned or Wiping Varnishes like Minway (Minwax?) Wiping Varnish,
> Watco Wiping Varnish, Formby's Tung Oil Finish, etc.
>
> I've also thought of a polyurethane satin, as I don't want a sheen,
> but polyurethane application is with a brush, producing bubble
> problems & I don't want to deal with that.
>
> I've thought of Thompson's Water Seal, but that may leave an
> unpleasant odor.
>
> Would appreciate any opinions/experiences. I'm a novice.

"Empedocles" wrote in message
news:1b4d65ef-f2bc-4391-87bc-b660eee8fc90@s9g2000prm.googlegroups.com...
>I have a new teak dining table, well finished, & ready to go. I
>want
> to protect the surface from spills, etc. I thought to buy teak
> oil,


> Would appreciate any opinions/experiences. I'm a novice.
>

Me too ....

Probably not what you are seeking, but may give you some ideas.

I've been using Tung based hard burnishing oil as a finish for some
years on interior teak (wooden boats,) jarrah and pine surfaces. It
appears to give excellent water and stain resistance and gives a
finish that appeals to me .... and more importantly, SWMBO ; )

For my purposes, it does however, require some intensive work.

Typically, I first apply at least two coats of 70/30 diluted raw
linseed oil and turpentine, (several more with pine,) on all
surfaces, wet sand the last coat and let it stand for at least a
week.

Then apply two coats of Tung based oil, wet sanded by hand with 400
grit wet and dry paper and hand buffed. Gives a finish somewhere
between low sheen and satin. I believe successive applications with
finer grades of wet and dry (600/800/1200) and power buffing will
result in a really high sheen,
although I've yet to try it.

Link below to a pic of food prep area in our kitchen, treated as
described above over three years ago. Has resisted all manner of
stains and stood up to knife cuts and bruising without the need to
re-finish so far. Gets a single application of Tung oil and light
hand buff every six months.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/32473839@N02/3043184586/

"DiggerOp" wrote in message
news:4923bf19$0$7570$5a62ac22@per-qv1-newsreader-01.iinet.net.au...
>
> "Empedocles" wrote in message
> news:1b4d65ef-f2bc-4391-87bc-b660eee8fc90@s9g2000prm.googlegroups.com...
>>I have a new teak dining table, well finished, & ready to go. I
>>want
>> to protect the surface from spills, etc. I thought to buy teak
>> oil,
>
>
>> Would appreciate any opinions/experiences. I'm a novice.
>>
>
> Me too ....
>
> Probably not what you are seeking, but may give you some ideas.
>
> I've been using Tung based hard burnishing oil as a finish for some
> years on interior teak (wooden boats,) jarrah and pine surfaces. It
> appears to give excellent water and stain resistance and gives a
> finish that appeals to me .... and more importantly, SWMBO ; )
>
> For my purposes, it does however, require some intensive work.
>
> Typically, I first apply at least two coats of 70/30 diluted raw
> linseed oil and turpentine, (several more with pine,) on all
> surfaces, wet sand the last coat and let it stand for at least a
> week.
>
> Then apply two coats of Tung based oil, wet sanded by hand with 400
> grit wet and dry paper and hand buffed. Gives a finish somewhere
> between low sheen and satin. I believe successive applications with
> finer grades of wet and dry (600/800/1200) and power buffing will
> result in a really high sheen,
> although I've yet to try it.
>
> Link below to a pic of food prep area in our kitchen, treated as
> described above over three years ago. Has resisted all manner of
> stains and stood up to knife cuts and bruising without the need to
> re-finish so far. Gets a single application of Tung oil and light
> hand buff every six months.
>
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/32473839@N02/3043184586/
>
>
Looks nice. I assume that the pine you used was some of that old timey stuff
and is much harder than most pine available now.

"Lee Michaels" wrote in message
news:002887a4$0$24195$c3e8da3@news.astraweb.com...
>
>>
>> http://www.flickr.com/photos/32473839@N02/3043184586/
>>
>>
> Looks nice. I assume that the pine you used was some of that old
> timey stuff and is much harder than most pine available now.
>

Thanks.

It's actually not very old timber - it's reject nonstructural pine
that the building trade doesn't want/cannot use. Comes up
periodically for auction to the salvage trade and general public,
generally in bundled lots of a tonne or more. (I'm in Perth, West
Oz.)
I happened to be at an auction that the trade wasn't very interested
and got 5 tonnes of 8"x 2"x 8' planks for $A70 a tonne.

10% is firewood, 40% has some useable sections and the balance has
some nice sticks of wood in there. Still cheap timber. Re-saws quite
nicely. Enough there to do the complete kitchen rebuild and storage
cupboards and benches for the workshop and then some.
Both still works in progress ..... for another 12 months perhaps ?
: )

The colouring/ageing effect is from using raw linseed oil. (May also
contribute to hardening.) Boiled linseed would leave a much lighter
finish, however I'm wary of the additives in boiled linseed,
especially in food areas.

"DiggerOp" wrote in message
news:4923d549$0$7565$5a62ac22@per-qv1-newsreader-01.iinet.net.au...
>
> "Lee Michaels" wrote in message
> news:002887a4$0$24195$c3e8da3@news.astraweb.com...
>>
>>>
>>> http://www.flickr.com/photos/32473839@N02/3043184586/
>>>
>>>
>> Looks nice. I assume that the pine you used was some of that old timey
>> stuff and is much harder than most pine available now.
>>
>
> Thanks.
>
> It's actually not very old timber - it's reject nonstructural pine that
> the building trade doesn't want/cannot use. Comes up periodically for
> auction to the salvage trade and general public, generally in bundled lots
> of a tonne or more. (I'm in Perth, West Oz.)
> I happened to be at an auction that the trade wasn't very interested and
> got 5 tonnes of 8"x 2"x 8' planks for $A70 a tonne.
>
> 10% is firewood, 40% has some useable sections and the balance has some
> nice sticks of wood in there. Still cheap timber. Re-saws quite nicely.
> Enough there to do the complete kitchen rebuild and storage cupboards and
> benches for the workshop and then some.
> Both still works in progress ..... for another 12 months perhaps ? : )
>
> The colouring/ageing effect is from using raw linseed oil. (May also
> contribute to hardening.) Boiled linseed would leave a much lighter
> finish, however I'm wary of the additives in boiled linseed, especially in
> food areas.
>
>
That explains it. You are on the other side of the planet! And those wood
prices are incredible! If I could get that stuff at that price, I would be
building a lot of things out of it too.

Many years ago, there was a wood source in town who had 2 X 10's and 2 X
12's out of pine for cheap. It was a one time deal. The got a good deal and
advertised it. It turns out it was lumber that was ordered by a waterbed
manufactuer that went belly up. It was high grade (for pine) lumber.

I loaded up on it aned made things out of it for years. It was relatively
light weight for its size. Easy to mill and took a good finish. I still have
a couple items made from it around here. It was simple and strong. And it
did not require any of those sissy, pretty boy joints or paint sprayers
either! :)

Lee Michaels wrote:
> "DiggerOp" wrote in message
> news:4923bf19$0$7570$5a62ac22@per-qv1-newsreader-01.iinet.net.au...
>>
>> "Empedocles" wrote in message
>> news:1b4d65ef-f2bc-4391-87bc-b660eee8fc90@s9g2000prm.googlegroups.com...
>>> I have a new teak dining table, well finished, & ready to go. I
>>> want
>>> to protect the surface from spills, etc. I thought to buy teak
>>> oil,
>>
>>
>>> Would appreciate any opinions/experiences. I'm a novice.
>>>
>>
>> Me too ....
>>
>> Probably not what you are seeking, but may give you some ideas.
>>
>> I've been using Tung based hard burnishing oil as a finish for some
>> years on interior teak (wooden boats,) jarrah and pine surfaces.
>> It
>> appears to give excellent water and stain resistance and gives a
>> finish that appeals to me .... and more importantly, SWMBO ; )
>>
>> For my purposes, it does however, require some intensive work.
>>
>> Typically, I first apply at least two coats of 70/30 diluted raw
>> linseed oil and turpentine, (several more with pine,) on all
>> surfaces, wet sand the last coat and let it stand for at least a
>> week.
>>
>> Then apply two coats of Tung based oil, wet sanded by hand with 400
>> grit wet and dry paper and hand buffed. Gives a finish somewhere
>> between low sheen and satin. I believe successive applications with
>> finer grades of wet and dry (600/800/1200) and power buffing will
>> result in a really high sheen,
>> although I've yet to try it.
>>
>> Link below to a pic of food prep area in our kitchen, treated as
>> described above over three years ago. Has resisted all manner of
>> stains and stood up to knife cuts and bruising without the need to
>> re-finish so far. Gets a single application of Tung oil and light
>> hand buff every six months.
>>
>> http://www.flickr.com/photos/32473839@N02/3043184586/
>>
>>
> Looks nice. I assume that the pine you used was some of that old
> timey stuff and is much harder than most pine available now.

He's Down Under--don't assume that _any_ wood that he talks about is
like _anything_ that is readily available in the US market.

--
--
--John
to email, dial "usenet" and validate
(was jclarke at eye bee em dot net)

Empedocles wrote:
> I have a new teak dining table, well finished, & ready to go. I want
> to protect the surface from spills, etc. I thought to buy teak oil,
> but reading posts elsewhere, it doesn't do much to give the kind of
> protection I want. There is a combination tung/teak oil product & I
> wonder about using that.
>
> What I want is a product I can wipe on with a rag & wipe off the
> excess, but which will still give me the protection. I don't want to
> sand/steel wool between coats. I just want one application to
> initially seal the porous wood. This is asking a lot.

If it's a "new teak dining table, well finished, & ready to go" why do you
want to mess with it? The finish already on it - most likely lacquer, maybe
oil) already protects it. If the finish *is* a film - lacquer or other -
all adding oil to it would do is mess it up.

--

dadiOH
____________________________

dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
...a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico

"J. Clarke" wrote in message
news:gg0rjs02qts@news5.newsguy.com...
> Lee Michaels wrote:
>> "DiggerOp" wrote in message
>> news:4923bf19$0$7570$5a62ac22@per-qv1-newsreader-01.iinet.net.au...
>>>
>> Looks nice. I assume that the pine you used was some of that old
>> timey stuff and is much harder than most pine available now.
>
> He's Down Under--don't assume that _any_ wood that he talks about
> is
> like _anything_ that is readily available in the US market.
>

That's certainly true, - although somewhat ironic in the case of the
pine. It was originally a native of California, - Monterey Pine,
(Pinus Radiata.)

Brought to Oz around 1880, and NZ in the 1850's it has become
possibly the most widely grown lumber tree in the world. Huge
plantations here in Oz. Comprises 90% of NZ's plantation forests,
including the worlds largest planted forest.

The Oz/NZ timber industry claim that selective breeding over the
years has produced a superior tree for lumber when compared to the
original Californian stock.

On Nov 18, 11:23 pm, "SonomaProducts.com" wrote:
> Just to be clear, is this table for outdoors or indoors?
>
> Yes, you want an oil finish. No you don't want a Poly finish. Poly is
> a film finish and is not going to have the application attributes you
> want. Even a wiping poly (poly with 50% or more thinner) is still a
> film finish and can give you problems in gettin a good finish unless
> you are practiced.
>
> Pure or true oil finishes will polymerize and build some level of film
> finish but not to anywhere near the hardness of a poly. I would
> suggest true Tung oil or Boiled Linseed Oil (BLO) thinned with mineral
> spirits or turpentine. You will likely want to do a few coats with a
> day in between or as the can suggests. For a full description try
> looking here.
>
> http://www.refinishfurniture.com/tung_oil_finish.htm
>
> On Nov 18, 9:17 pm, Empedocles wrote:
>
> > I have a new teak dining table, well finished, & ready to go. I want
> > to protect the surface from spills, etc. I thought to buy teak oil,
> > but reading posts elsewhere, it doesn't do much to give the kind of
> > protection I want. There is a combination tung/teak oil product & I
> > wonder about using that.
>
> > What I want is a product I can wipe on with a rag & wipe off the
> > excess, but which will still give me the protection. I don't want to
> > sand/steel wool between coats. I just want one application to
> > initially seal the porous wood. This is asking a lot.
>
> > Here are some choices I've run across & I'd like someone's opinion/
> > experience with. I'd really like it if I can find the product in my
> > local Ace Hardware, Home Depot, etc.:
>
> > Oil/Varnish mixtures like Behr Scandinavian Tung Oil Finish, Minwax
> > Tung Oil Finish, Watco Danish Oil, etc.
>
> > Thinnned or Wiping Varnishes like Minway (Minwax?) Wiping Varnish,
> > Watco Wiping Varnish, Formby's Tung Oil Finish, etc.
>
> > I've also thought of a polyurethane satin, as I don't want a sheen,
> > but polyurethane application is with a brush, producing bubble
> > problems & I don't want to deal with that.
>
> > I've thought of Thompson's Water Seal, but that may leave an
> > unpleasant odor.
>
> > Would appreciate any opinions/experiences. I'm a novice.

The dining table is indoors.